2. Checking the cooling system should be started on a cold engine. It is better if you did not drive the car at all that day, and if you did, then let it cool down for at least three hours.
3. Remove the radiator cap (on 4-cylinder models) or filler cap (on V-shaped engines). Note that on V-engine models, the plug is located on top of the engine on the belt side. If a hiss is heard when the plug is loosened (this means that there is still excess pressure in the system), wait until the hissing stops. Only then unscrew the plug to the end and remove it from the neck. Rinse the plug thoroughly with clean water inside and out. Wipe the radiator neck. Remove all traces of corrosion. Look into the neck - the liquid in the radiator should be transparent. If the fluid has a rusty color, then it must be replaced (see paragraph 24). If the fluid level does not reach the top of the neck, add a mixture of antifreeze and water to the system (see paragraph 4).
4. Carefully inspect the radiator and heater hoses that extend to the engine bulkhead. If any hose shows cracks, fraying, or signs of rubber degradation, replace that hose. Cracks are easier to find if the hose is squeezed (pic. 14.4).
Pic. 14.4. Hoses, like belts, tend to break at the most inopportune moment. In order not to find yourself in the middle of the road with a non-working radiator or heater, check the hoses frequently, as shown in these pictures
5. Check the tightness of all hose clamps. A cooling system leak usually shows up as white or rusty deposits in the area of the leak. Wire clamps are best replaced with more reliable worm-type clamps.
6. Use compressed air or a soft brush to clean the core of the radiator and air conditioner condenser from leaves and insects. Be careful not to damage the radiator fins and cut yourself on it.
7. If there are problems with the cooling system, first check the valves of the radiator cap. Most repair shops will provide you with this service for a moderate fee.