Engine
Engine starts poorly or does not start at all
Errors on startup.
- On a cold engine: Fully depress the gas pedal once and release. Fully depress the clutch and start the engine.
- If the temperature is below freezing or the car has not been driven for several days, the gas pedal should be depressed two or three times
- On a warm engine: When starting, depress the gas pedal halfway. Start the engine. When the engine starts, release the gas pedal. Do not pump with the gas pedal.
- On a hot engine: Fully depress the gas pedal and, while holding in this position, (do not pump), start the engine. After starting, release the pedal.
injection engine: Do not depress the gas pedal when starting.
Diesel engine:
- On a cold engine: Turn on the ignition, when the control lamp goes out, fully depress the clutch and gas pedals and start the engine.
- On a warm engine: Preheating is not required, the engine can be started immediately. If the engine does not start immediately, wait a while and restart. Allow the engine to idle for a while before applying gas.
The ignition system is faulty or dirty. Check the ignition system according to the troubleshooting table.
The power system is defective or contaminated. Check the power system according to the troubleshooting table.
The starter cranks very slowly. Charge the battery. Check starter.
Valve clearance is not correct. Adjust valve clearance.
The valve timing has been shifted. Check valve timing, check toothed belt tension.
Compression pressure too low. Adjust valve clearance, rebuild engine.
Cylinder head gasket defective. Replace gasket.
On a diesel engine: faulty preheating system. Check the preheating system according to the troubleshooting table.
Faulty injectors. Check injectors.
Faulty injection pump. Check injection pump.
Engine lubrication system
The control lamp does not burn after inclusion of ignition
Defective oil pressure sensor. Turn on the ignition. Disconnect the sensor wire and short to ground. If the lamp lights up, replace the sensor.
The sensor is not energized, the contacts are corroded. Check electrical wires and contacts.
The control lamp is defective. Replace indicator lamp.
The control lamp does not go out after starting the engine
The oil is too warm. It is normal if the control lamp goes out after the gas is applied.
The control lamp does not go out after applying gas or lights up while driving
The oil pressure is too low. Check oil level.
The wire to the oil pressure sensor has a short to ground. Disconnect the cable from the sensor and lay it aside (without grounding).
The oil pressure sensor is defective. Replace sensor.
Too low oil pressure at all speeds
There is too little oil in the engine. Add oil.
The strainer is clogged. Remove the oil pan, clean the strainer.
Worn oil pump. Remove the oil pump and check it, replace if necessary.
Bearing damage. Remove engine.
Too low oil pressure at low speeds
Pressure reducing valve stuck open due to contamination. Remove and check valve.
Oil pressure too high above 3000 rpm
Pressure reducing valve does not open due to contamination. Remove and check valve.
Engine cooling system
The coolant temperature is too high, the arrow is in the red area
There is too little coolant in the system. The expansion tank must be filled to the mark. Add fluid if necessary. Check the tightness of the cooling system.
The thermostat does not open, the coolant circulates only through a small circuit. Check if the upper coolant hose is warm. Otherwise, remove and check the thermostat, replace it if necessary. On the road: remove the thermostat. Without a thermostat, the engine will not reach its normal operating temperature late, or not at all, so replace a defective thermostat as soon as possible.
Water pump multi-ribbed V-belt tension too low. Check and adjust tension.
Radiator fins dirty. Blow out the radiator with compressed air from the engine side.
The radiator is clogged inside due to lime deposits or rust, the lower radiator hose is cold. Replace radiator.
The electric fan does not work. Check the seating and contact of the plug on the thermal switch and fan motor. Check thermal switch. On the road: Disconnect the plug from the thermal switch. The fan will run continuously while the ignition is on. As a general rule, additional fan cooling is only necessary for city driving or short distances. Check if voltage is applied to the fan motor plug (ignition on, thermoswitch plug bridged). If so, replace the fan motor.
Radiator cap defective. Perform a pressure test (performed in the workshop).
Faulty coolant temperature gauge. Check pointer/sensor.
Ignition system
Engine starts poorly or does not start at all
There is no ignition spark, the distributor cap is wet, dirty. Clean and dry the distributor cap.
Cracks in the distributor cap, burnt channels. Replace distributor cap.
The contact piece in the distributor cap is worn out. Replace coal.
Defective distributor slider. Replace runner.
Too high resistance of the distributor slider. Replace runner.
Too high resistance of ignition cables/plug tips. Replace ignition cables/plug ends.
Spark plug tips not connected correctly. Connect the tips of the candles in the sequence 1-3-4-2.
Spark plugs are damp due to multiple starting attempts. Clean and dry spark plugs.
The spark plugs are damp or dirty on the outside. Clean and dry the spark plugs, put protective silicone caps on the spark plugs and tips.
Ignition coil power too low. Check the tightness of the fit and the contact of the wires on the ignition coil.
Cracks and burnout channels in the ignition coil. Replace ignition coil.
Loss of voltage due to electrical connections or wires touching engine hoses. Route wires properly.
Significantly shifted ignition timing. Adjust ignition timing.
The supply voltage of the control device is less than 9.5 V. Check the state of charge of the battery.
Hall sensor defective. Check Hall sensor (performed in the workshop).
Carburetor
Cold engine won't start
The start gate does not close. Check automatic cold start.
The starter flap or pull rod is hard to move. Make the damper move freely.
The fastening of the axis of the starting damper or the drive lever has loosened. Remove the carburetor cover. Press in a new axle, if necessary a drive lever, insert a ball and a spring.
Throttle valve does not open enough. Adjust throttle clearance.
Fuel supply interrupted. Check fuel supply
- The fuel tank is empty. Pour fuel
- Fuel lines are leaking, flattened. Check
- pipes, replace if necessary
- Fuel pump leaking. Replace fuel pump
- Fuel pump diaphragm ruptured. Replace fuel pump.
Leaky float, float needle valve. Replace, check float level.
Dirty or clogged jets. Clean, replace.
Engine stalls on cold start
The starting damper does not open, it has a heavy stroke. Make the flap move easy.
Insufficient amount of fuel in the float chamber due to evaporation on a hot engine. Start again, depress the gas pedal several times and start the engine with the pedal depressed.
Engine stalls before reaching operating temperature
See Section Engine stalls on cold start.
Idle adjustment is not correct. Adjust the speed and CO content.
The engine sucks in foreign air. Check the tightness of the intake tract.
Worn throttle shaft. Replace carburetor.
Weak fastening jets in the carburetor. Tighten.
Loose carburetor mount. Tighten the fastening nuts, if necessary, install a new carburetor gasket.
Difficulty hot start
Over-enrichment due to evaporation and condensation of the fuel. Run the engine at full throttle (Keeping the gas pedal pressed).
The formation of vapor locks in the fuel supply system. Start the engine at full throttle and pull away at a higher RPM. If it occurs again, change the brand of gasoline, refuel with branded gasoline.
Full power not achieved, interruptions at full load
Mixture too lean or too rich.
- Fuel filter dirty. Replace
- Jets dirty. Clean
- Fuel level too low/too high.
Adjust float
- Clogged fuel tank vent. Clean
- Throttle valve does not open fully. Adjust gas supply.
Too little air flow.
- Starter flap does not open fully. Adjust start damper drive
- Air filter element dirty. Clean, replace if necessary.
Fuel injection system
Engine won't start
When the starter is engaged, the electric fuel pump does not operate. Check if voltage is being applied to the pump. Check electrical contacts for good conductivity.
Injection valves stuck. Check valves, replace if necessary.
Fuel pressure too low. Check fuel pressure.
Air mass meter defective. Check air mass meter.
Plug on control unit defective. Check plug, replace if necessary.
Cold engine starts badly, works unstably
The CO content does not meet the requirements. Check CO content and idle speed.
Faulty coolant temperature sensor. Check temperature sensor.
Leaky air intake system. Check intake system connections.
Air valve defective. Check air valve.
Fuel pressure too low. Check fuel pressure.
Warm engine starts poorly, runs erratically
Poor fuel quality, vapor lock formation. Refuel branded fuel.
Leaky air intake system. Check intake system connections.
Engine runs intermittently
The electrical connections to the fuel pump are interrupted from time to time. Check the condition of the plug connections and connectors of the electrical wires of the fuel pump. Check fuse. Clean contacts, replace if necessary.
Control unit plug defective. Check plug, replace if necessary.
Poor fuel quality, vapor lock formation. Refuel branded fuel.
Fuel pressure too low. Check fuel pressure.
Fuel filter clogged. Replace fuel filter.
Faulty coolant temperature sensor. Check temperature sensor.
Faulty injection valves. Check injection valves.
Air mass meter defective. Check air mass meter.
Leaky air intake system. Check intake system connections.
The engine has interruptions in transient operation
Leaky air intake system. Check intake system connections.
Incorrect idle adjustment. Check idle speed controller, catalytic converter (lambda adjustment).
Throttle sensor defective or incorrectly adjusted. Check throttle sensor.
Hot engine won't start
Too high pressure in the fuel system. Check fuel pressure, replace pressure regulator if necessary.
Clogged or bent return line between pressure regulator and fuel tank. Clean or replace piping.
Faulty engine temperature sensor. Check temperature sensor.
Leaky injection valves. Remove the valves, leave the pipelines connected, turn on the starter for a short time.
Fuel system leaking. Visually check all connections in the area of the engine and electric fuel pump. Tighten all connections.
Leaky air intake system. Check all intake system connections.
Diesel injection system
Engine does not start or starts poorly
The engine is not preheated. Check preheat system.
The fuel cutoff solenoid valve is not energized. Connect a voltage indicator to the solenoid valve.
The solenoid valve is loose, the valve is defective. Check the tightness of the fit and reliable contact of the valve with the ground. Turn the ignition on and off, while the valve should click.
Faulty fuel supply system. Check that fuel is supplied.
Fuel lines are bent, clogged.
- leaky, cracked. Check fuel lines.
- clogged fuel filter. Clean fuel lines.
- clogged fuel tank vent. The fuel screen in the tank is dirty. Clean.
Faulty injectors. Check injectors.
Faulty injection pump. Install a new pump to test
Engine runs jerky at idle when starting off
Loose hoses on fuel pump or fuel filter. Replace fuel hoses, secure with clamps, tighten hollow bolts.
See Section The engine does not start or starts poorly.
Fuel consumption too high
Fuel filter dirty. Replace filter element.
The power system is leaky. Perform a visual inspection of all fuel lines.
Clogged fuel return line. Blow out the return line from the injection pump to the fuel tank with air. Replace the bypass throttle in the hollow bolt of the return line.
The idle speed is too high. Adjust idle speed
Preheat indicator lamp does not light up
The control lamp on the panel of devices is faulty. Replace lamp.
Faulty preheat/glow plug system. Check glow plugs.
The preheat indicator lamp does not light up, a cold engine does not start well
One or more glow plugs are defective. Check and, if necessary, replace the glow plugs.
Clutch
Clutch jerking
Too low idle speed. Adjust the idle speed.
Faulty motor or gearbox bearings. Check, replace if necessary.
The gearbox is not firmly fixed in the suspension. Tighten the mounting bolts.
Clutch cable routed incorrectly (only applies to mechanical cable clutch). Properly route the cable.
The pressure plate presses unevenly. Replace pressure disc.
A non-original MAZDA driven disc has been installed. Install the original driven disk.
The driven disk is worn or oily. Check drive disk.
The release bearing presses on one side. Check the clutch release fork and release bearing.
Clutch slips
Insufficient clutch pedal play. Adjust pedal play.
Seizes the working cylinder. Replace slave cylinder.
Driven disc worn out. Check the thickness of the driven disk, replace if necessary.
Insufficient diaphragm spring force. Replace pressure disc.
The lining is hardened or oily. Replace driven disk.
The clutch was overheated. Install original MAZDA part.
Gear shifting is difficult or not shifting at all (clutch disengages incorrectly)
The lining is stuck due to wear products. Replace driven disk.
The driven disk is stuck on the input shaft, the spline connection is dry or stuck. Clean spline, deburr, remove rust if necessary and lubricate with MoS2 grease.
The driven disk has lateral runout. Check drive disk.
Too much clutch play. Adjust clutch pedal play.
Air in clutch lines (only for hydraulic clutch). Bleed the clutch drive.
Faulty clutch slave or master cylinder (only for hydraulic clutch). Repair clutch cylinders.
Pressure plate defective. Replace pressure disc.
Heavy pedal travel
Heavy pedal/cable axle travel (only applies to mechanical cable clutch). Lubricate or replace parts.
Unusual noises when engaging and disengaging the clutch
Worn release bearing. Replace release bearing.
Loose parts in the clutch housing. Repair clutch.
Brake system
Increased brake pedal travel
Brake pads are completely or partially worn out. Adjust or replace brake pads.
The brake circuit has failed. Check if brake fluid is leaking.
Drum brakes incorrectly adjusted. Check the brake pad adjustment system.
The handbrake cable is too tight. Adjust handbrake.
Brake pedal springs and falls
Air in the brake system. Remove air from the system.
Not enough liquid in the tank. Top up with new brake fluid.
The formation of steam bubbles. It appears mainly when the brakes are heavily loaded. Change the brake fluid, remove air from the system.
Decreased braking effect, pedal fails
Pipeline leakage. Tighten pipe connections or replace pipes.
Damage to the cuffs in the main or working brake cylinders. Replace cuff. In the main brake cylinder, replace the internal elements.
The sealing cuff between the brake circuits in the main brake cylinder is faulty. Replace cuff.
Specifically for disc brakes:
Rubber gasket damaged. Repair the caliper.
Poor braking despite high pedal pressure
Brake pads are oily. Replace brake pads.
Incorrect or hardened pads installed. Replace pads. Install original MAZDA pads.
Brake booster defective. Check brake booster.
The piston is stuck. Repair the caliper.
The hydraulic system is dirty. Clean.
Specifically for disc brakes:
Worn brake pads. Replace brake pads.
Brakes lock up on light braking
The brake pads are slightly oily. Replace brake pads.
Weak return springs. Replace return springs.
Brakes get hot while driving
The compensation hole in the main brake cylinder is clogged. Clean the master cylinder and replace the internals.
Insufficient free play on the pusher of the master cylinder. Check.
Brake piston sticking or hard to move. To correct.
Clogged brake line. Clean.
The hand brake actuator is stuck, the hand brake is incorrectly adjusted. Adjust handbrake.
Especially for drum brakes:
Weak brake pad return springs. Replace return springs.
Brake pads do not move away from the brake disc, the wheel is difficult to turn by hand
Specifically for disc brakes:
Corrosion in brake caliper cylinders. Repair the caliper.
Uneven pad wear
Specifically for disc brakes:
Incorrect pads installed. Replace pads.
Caliper dirty. Clean the caliper shaft.
Heavy piston stroke. Eliminate.
The brake system is leaking. Check the tightness of the brake system.
Vehicle pulls to one side when braking
The tire pressure is not correct. Check and correct tire pressure.
Uneven tire wear. Replace worn tires.
Brake pads are oily. Replace pads.
Faulty wheel suspension or steering components. Check.
Blocks of different types are installed on the same axle. Replace pads. Install original MAZDA pads.
Violation of the working surface of the brake pad. Replace brake pads.
Clogged brake line. Check the brake pressure of all 4 brakes.
Specifically for disc brakes:
The caliper shafts are dirty. Clean the guides and seating surfaces of the pads in the caliper.
Corrosion of brake caliper cylinders. Replace support.
Uneven brake pad wear. Replace brake pads (on both wheels).
Especially for drum brakes:
The pistons in the wheel cylinders have a hard stroke. Replace wheel cylinder.
Screeching brakes
Worn brake pad (the wear sensor is adjacent to the brake disc). Replace brake pads.
Often due to atmospheric influence (air humidity). If a creak appears after a long stay at high humidity and then disappears, no work is carried out.
Specifically for disc brakes:
Incorrect pads installed. Replace pads.
The brake disc does not rotate parallel to the caliper. Check brake caliper contact surfaces.
The caliper shaft is dirty. Clean the caliper shaft.
Stretched springs. Replace springs.
Especially for drum brakes:
Wrong brake pads installed. Replace pads.
The block does not fit correctly. Replace pads.
The brake is dirty. Clear the brakes.
Weak return springs. Replace return springs.
Pedal pulsation
Specifically for disc brakes:
Too much lateral runout or brake disc thickness tolerance. Check runout and thickness. Repair or replace the disk.
The brake disc rotates out of parallel with the caliper. Check the contact surface of the caliper.
Especially for drum brakes:
Uneven surface of the wheel disc to the brake drum, due to this the drum is skewed. You can try to swap the wheels. Better: Boring a brake drum with a screwed wheel on a lathe.
Brake tightens by itself
The compensation hole in the main brake cylinder is clogged. Clean the master cylinder and replace the internals.
The gap between the drive rod and the master cylinder piston is too small. Check clearance (performed in the workshop).
The brakes are shaking
Wrong pads installed. Replace pads.
Specifically for disc brakes:
The brake disc is corroded in places. Carefully sand the brake disc.
The brake disc has lateral runout. Disk repair or replace.
Especially for drum brakes:
Worn brake pads. Replace pads.
The brake drum is not round. Loosen the brake drum.
Wedge-shaped brake pad wear
Specifically for disc brakes:
The brake disc rotates out of parallel with the caliper. Check caliper contact surfaces.
Corrosion in calipers. Eliminate pollution.
The piston is not working properly. Check piston position.
Wheels and tires
Tire wear
Severe tire wear on both sides of the running surface. Tire pressure too low.
Strong tire wear in the middle of the working surface, around the entire circumference. Too high tire pressure.
Uneven tread wear. Static and dynamic wheel imbalance. There may be too much lateral runout of the disc.
Uneven wear in the middle of the profile. Static wheel imbalance. Possible consequence of a strong vertical beat.
Strong wear of individual places in the middle of the working surface. Traces of blocking at full braking.
Sawtooth profile wear. Often along with a broken cord that is not visible from the outside.
Vehicle overload. Check the inside of the tire for cord breaks.
Rubber tabs on the side edges of the profile. Incorrect wheel alignment. The tire is worn out. On the rear wheels, also check the condition of the shock absorber. Burr formation on one side of the front wheel profile. Incorrect toe adjustment. The tire is worn out. Frequent movement on undulating surfaces. Fast cornering.
Breaks at the base of the tire. At first they are only visible from the inside. Crossing over sharp rocks.
One-sided worn work surface. Check camber adjustment.
Heater
Heater fan not working
Fan motor fuse defective. Check fan fuse, replace if necessary.
Faulty fan switch. Check if voltage is applied to the pre-resistors, remove and check the fan switch.
Electric motor defective. Check electric motor.
The heater fan does not work on one of the stages
Faulty preresistor. Check preresistors.
Heating power too low
Coolant level too low. Check coolant level, top up if necessary.
The heater drive has a heavy stroke, is faulty. Check the heater drive, if necessary, replace the cable drive.
Heat exchanger leaking or clogged. Replace heat exchanger (performed in the workshop).
Fan does not turn off
The heater drive has a heavy stroke, is faulty. Check the heater drive, if necessary, replace the cable drive.
Noise in the heater fan area
Got dirt, leaves. Remove the fan and clean it, clean the air channel.
Impeller imbalance, bearing failure. Remove the fan motor, check for ease of movement and bearing play.
Electrical system
Battery
Too low electrolyte level
Recharge, liquefy (especially in summer). Top up with distilled water to the required level (on a charged battery).
Electrolyte comes out of plugs
Charging voltage too high. Check voltage regulator.
Electrolyte level too high. Suck out excess electrolyte with suction.
Electrolyte density too low
The density of the electrolyte in one of the jars is much lower than in the others. Short circuit in one bank. Replace battery.
The density of the electrolyte in two adjacent banks is clearly lower than in the others. The bulkhead is leaking, because of this, a conductive connection occurs between the banks, due to which they are discharged. Replace battery.
The battery is empty. Charge the battery.
Generator defective. Check alternator and repair or replace if necessary.
Short circuit in the wires. Check electrical system.
The electrolyte contains a large amount of water due to maintenance errors. Equalize the ratio.
Electrolyte density too high
Added acid. Equalize the ratio.
Power output too low, voltage drops too much
The battery is empty. Charge the battery.
Charging voltage too low. Check voltage regulator, replace if necessary.
Connection terminals are loose or oxidized. Clean the terminals, especially the underside.
Poor ground connection between battery, engine and body. Check the ground connection, if necessary, install metal connections or tighten the bolts.
Excessive battery self-discharge due to electrolyte contamination. Replace battery.
Battery is sulphated (gray-white plaque on the plus and minus plates). Charge the battery with a small current to eliminate plaque, if the power output is still low after repeated charging and discharging, replace the battery.
The battery is worn out, the active mass of the plates is out of order. Replace battery.
Insufficient battery charging
Malfunction of the generator, voltage regulator or wire contacts. Check generator and voltage regulator, repair or replace; secure the wires perfectly.
Loose V-belt. Tension or replace V-belt.
Too many consumers connected. Install a larger battery.
Long cooldown
Malfunction in the voltage regulator, possibly in the generator. Replace voltage regulator or check alternator.
Generator
The control lamp of a charge does not burn at the included ignition
Low battery. Charge the battery.
Loose or corroded ground rail on alternator. Check the reliability of the ground cable contact, tighten the bolt.
The lamp has burnt out. Replace.
The fuse has blown. Replace the fuse for the ignition and charge system.
Regulator defective. Check regulator, replace if necessary.
Breakage of wires between the generator, the ignition switch and the control lamp. Check with a voltmeter according to the diagram.
Plug-in connection between relay board and alternator open. Check and replace plug if necessary.
The carbon brushes do not touch the slip ring. Check the free play and length of the brushes.
The excitation winding of the generator burned out. Replace rotor.
The charge indicator lamp does not go out with an increase in the number of revolutions
Loose V-belt. Pull on the V-belt.
Worn carbon brushes. Replace carbon brushes.
Regulator defective. Check regulator, replace if necessary.
The wire between the generator and the control lamp has a short to ground. Replace wiring harness.
The control lamp of a charge burns after switching off of ignition
Positive diodes have a short circuit. Check diodes, replace diode board.
Starter
The starter does not rotate when the ignition switch is turned on
Low battery. Charge the battery.
Bridge terminals 30 and 50 of the starter: The starter turns. Broken wire 50 to the ignition switch, the starter switch is faulty. Repair breakage, replace defective parts.
Breakage of the cable or ground connector, the battery is discharged. Check battery cables and connectors.
Insufficient current flow due to loose or oxidized connectors. Clean battery poles and terminals, check connections between battery, starter and ground.
There is no voltage at terminal 50 of the traction relay. Broken wire, starter switch defective.
Starter relay defective. Check relay, replace if necessary
The starter rotates slowly and does not turn the crankshaft
Battery discharge. Charge the battery.
Filled with summer oil. Fill with universal oil.
Insufficient current flow due to loose or oxidized connectors. Clean battery poles and terminals, check connections between battery, starter and ground.
The carbon brushes are loose on the commutator, stuck in the guides, worn, broken, oily or dirty. Check brushes, clean or replace. Check guides.
Insufficient distance between brushes and commutator. Replace brushes and clean brush guides.
Collector in grooves or burnt and oily. Treat the collector or replace the anchor.
No voltage at terminal 50 (min. 8 V). Check starter switch or traction relay.
Faulty traction relay. Replace traction relay.
The starter seizes and rotates the engine jerkily
Defective gear drive. Replace gear drive.
The gear is dirty. Clean gear.
Flywheel ring gear defective. To process a ring gear, if it is required, to replace a flywheel.
Starter gear does not move away from crown
Gear drive or threads are dirty or damaged. Clean or replace gear drive.
Faulty traction relay. Replace traction relay.
The return spring is weak or broken. Replace return spring.
The starter continues to work after the ignition key is released
The traction relay is stuck, does not turn off. Immediately turn off the ignition, replace the traction relay.
The ignition switch does not turn off. Disconnect the battery immediately, replace the ignition switch.
Wiper system
Wiper blades
slippage
The rubber bands are dirty. Clean the rubber bands with a stiff nylon brush and detergent solution or alcohol.
Frayed edges of the brushes, rubber bands worn or torn. Replace rubber bands.
Old rubber bands, cracked surfaces. Replace rubber bands.
In the cleaning field, the remaining water immediately collects in drops
The windshield is dirty with lacquer polish or oil. Clean the windshield with a clean cloth with grease, oil, silicone remover.
The brush cleans one-sidedly - one side is good, the other is not
The rubber is deformed in one direction "no longer tip over". Install new rubber.
The wiper arm is twisted, the blade does not fit exactly on the glass. Carefully turn the lever until the vertical position is reached.
Uncleaned surfaces
The rubber has come loose from the frame. Carefully insert the elastic into the frame.
The brush does not adhere to the glass evenly, as the spring bars or plates are bent. Replace brush. This malfunction, first of all, appears when the spare brush is carelessly installed.
Lever pressure is too low. Lightly lubricate the wiper arm pivots and springs or install a new arm.